To Zion and Back Again

It might be cliche, but a bucket list item I procrastinated for my entire life has been to see the Grand Canyon. Over the past few years, whenever I mentioned this idea to other seasoned travelers (Americans that own passports), the response was overwhelmingly the same: “Go to Zion instead. It’s better.” So, when I landed in the 116-degree heat of Las Vegas, the equivalent of a state-sized convection oven, I made a B-line for this acclaimed promised land. They were right. Zion wasn’t just merely beautiful—it leaves an indelible mark on the soul. I saw some other stunning places during my ten-day trek across Nevada, Utah, and Arizona, but I distinctly remember feeling more complete and yes—I even felt like a better person—for experiencing Zion.

“To the desert go prophets and hermits; through desert go pilgrims and exiles. Here the leaders of the great religions have sought the therapeutic and spiritual values of retreat, not to escape but to find reality.” 

― Paul Shepard, Man in the Landscape a Historic View of the Esthetics of Nature

Apart from fulfilling a lifelong dream to see the Grand Canyon, my need to explore the West was fueled by reading Into the Wild with my students over the past five years. The words that Chris McCandless carved into Fairbanks Bus 142 perpetually haunted my mind: “Escaped from Atlanta. Thou shall not return because the West is the best.”

For years, I challenged students to reflect on their American religion of materialism and to question things like why do they believe working in the same cubicle in the same office for twenty-five years is sane or normal? Maybe, just maybe, this risk-taking Chris McCandless was on to something by shedding the comforts and trappings of a modern conventional life in exchange for freedom and adventure. There is individualism in rejecting the conforming demands and pressures of society. There is freedom in rejecting the American way of becoming a slave to debt, working a lifetime to pay off student loans and 30-year mortgages. There are more opportunities for adventure, excitement, risk, and personal growth in a nomadic existence. As McCandless wrote to Ron Franz, “there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.” I grasped these ideas and even experienced them myself when I lived in Southeast Asia, but I still felt disconnected from this beauty of the American west that so captivated McCandless. As Chris wrote to Wayne Westerberg, “the freedom and simple beauty of this place is too good to pass up.” Personally, I needed to understand this beauty–Zion delivered.

When I arrived in Springdale, I wanted to attach a GoPro to the outside of my rental just to share what I was witnessing with my family, especially my mom, back home. The towering white and red-infused iron mountains speckled with green trees up to the horizon line are enough to make a person contemplate if they still reside in reality. I know the moments I experienced in Zion were likely an ounce to the pound of beauty McCandless experienced in his two-and-a-half-year stint leather-tramping around the western United States. I also know what I did was infinitely less adventurous than the undertakings of McCandless. But I gained enough from Zion to feel capable to faithfully communicate the message and wisdom of Chris McCandless to my students in the future.

There is no question about it. I love the West! The West is the best!

“It should not be denied… that being footloose has always exhilarated us. It is associated in our minds with escape from history and oppression and law and irksome obligations, with absolute freedom, and the road has always led West.” 

-Wallace Stegner

Travel Tips for Visiting Zion

1.) Beat the heat with Angel’s Landing.

I went to Zion in late August, likely one of the hottest times to visit. I must admit, I made a poor decision to hike both the Grotto Trail and Angel’s Landing at 2:00 in the afternoon. I had to stop several times to sit in the shade and drink copious amounts of water. Walter’s Wiggles, the famous set of switchbacks that must be ascended before reaching Scout’s Lookout, about murdered me. This was the only time on my entire trip I felt nauseous from the heat and really had to sit down and cool off. Mind you, four days later, I hiked down the South Kaibab Trail to The Tip Off and back in six hours, so I’m not in bad shape. But even with my acclimation to Florida heat and humidity, 116 degree dry heat needs to be revered. With that said, plan to hike the Grotto and Angel’s Landing in the morning. Also, apply for a permit to hike Angel’s Landing every day of your trip. I never got approved for a permit in my three days in Zion. I just happened to “accidentally ascend” Angel’s Landing because of my heat delirium ;).

Despite the heat, Zion is very pleasant in the early morning hours. I would plan to get to the park by sunrise. Parking is plentiful at the Visitor’s Center in the early morning and the weather feels fantastic until about noon. Even in the late afternoon and early evening, it’s still uncomfortably warm. Take advantage of the morning hours and smaller crowds.

2. Drive the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway

Driving into Zion through Springdale on Scenic Byway 9 (SR-9) is amazing. Leaving the park through SR-9 (Known as Zion-Mount Carmel Highway) might be the best 15 minute drive of your life. Make sure you drive through this section of the park. Several of my photos above were literally taken by just stepping outside of my car. I would also stop and take the short hike up the Canyon Overlook Trail. This trail is just on the other side of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. When I return to Zion, I have every intention of repeating this hike for sunrise or sunset to capture some gorgeous photos.

3. The Narrows is a must, but rent the necessary gear to make your life easier.

In my opinion, The Narrows is the best activity or hike in Zion. This hike literally goes up the Virgin River through a slot canyon at the northern end of the park. During this hike, you will wade through Virgin River. You will pass through steep canyon walls, miniature waterfalls, crying rocks, and climb huge boulders, all while sunlight trickles in through the crevices above. The water and the shade make this an unbelievably refreshing and cool hike despite the raging temperatures in the rest of the canyon. I would advise you to pack some food and make this an all day hike. Some parts of the hike are dry, some involve wading through the river, and some parts, depending on how far you go, require swimming. It really can be a full day of exploration and relaxation.

At first, your ankles will get sore from stepping over so many rocks, but eventually, your body adjusts to the demands. You will make your life a lot easier if you spend 30 bucks on renting proper boots, a walking pole, and neoprene socks. You’ll be thankful for the walking pole and extra ankle support provided by the boots. I rented my gear at Zion Guru. These guys were super helpful and also gave me some advice on how to take a few roads less traveled during my trip.

4. Skip the Bus, Rent an E-bike.

Unlike an amusement park, you are not required to stay on any path or road in a national park. If you see a nice spot in the Virgin River and decide to take a dip, no one will stop you. The bus system is great and convenient. But you are missing out if you don’t take a day to explore the park by E-bike. Just do it, you won’t regret the freedom it provides for experiencing Zion.